#Cetus3d extended mods
#Cetus3d extended plus

Some of my failed nozzles that had the same issue, the dark filament one is a good carbon fiber filament.

#Cetus3d extended plus

I have no way to film in place a closeup that shows what happens, plus i’ve already spent way too much trying to diagnose this problem. It may also be the molten plastic inside the nozzle isnt being extruded fast enough and on longer print sessions it builds up and overflows out the top causing the jamming blob. I’m thinking that the top of the steel part of the nozzle where the filament enters is accumulating too much heat and softening the filament before it enters causing it to buckle and form the blob which then prevents extrusion completely. So the problem is not a one off for me but a consistent problem.

This is typical on other nozzles I’ve put aside too. See the following photo for the muffin top blob in place: Below is a closer photo showing this blob and you can easily see where the cog teeth grip thefilament hard trying to pull it through and where it strats to fail and just gring away at the filament. Originally I thought it may have been dust or particles clogging the extruder tip but I’ve noticed the past few months a regular “muffin-top” blob of plastic on top of the nozzle shaft, i usually have to cut this off to remove the nozzle to replace it and take off the extruder cover and clean plastic shavings from the cog. Sometimes if the print is small it’ll finish but larger prints or many prints it fails to extrude during the print resulting in the following: The print, until it stops extruding, is good and clean with no sign of thining extrusion or blobs/shears etc.

#Cetus3d extended mods

I have no mods on my machine except for a cable guide to keep the rainbow cable on top from getting lose or catching on the vertical rail and I’m using only the cetus software v2.2.28.44 on Windows 7 64bit.Anyway it usually prints well, when cleaned extruder cog and new nozzle installed and a well dried filament. It just worked reliable but the past year it reliably clogs instead forcing me to replace the nozzle. I typically use the 0.4 nozzle, having never been able to get the 0.2 working, I use 0.6 when I run out of 0.4 nozzles.Initially me printer was bulletproof and printed well day after day, with any brand of filament,new and old. My printer is a Cetus3D Extended Mk II with heated bed and a GeckoTek Ez-Stick Hot surface.

If you moved the Z-axis mounting plate the right amount, you should now be able to calibrate your Cetus3D printer.Īnd what a printer! After calibration, the printer has been running 24/7!Ī minor snag on an otherwise excellent printer!.Reading others posts i’ve been having the same sort of problem as theirs and after trying all the suggests and spending enough on another printer replacing extruder several times and a ton of nozzle replacements too.

Retighten the nut that holds the attachment rail and re-assemble the Z-axis. Lean the whole assembly back and loosen the hex screw for the Z-axis adjustment plate using the supplied wrench. You have to remove the three screws that hold the Z-axis. When they assemble the Cetus3D in China, sometimes they don’t adjust the height of the Z-axis good enough. But there is an easy fix for the problem. When I started through the steps to calibrate the printer by adjusting the build plate height, but the print head/nozzle refused to get close enough to the build plate to finish the calibration! The cables on the motor came in contact with the chassis of the printer! So the injector was 5mm from the build plate and couldn’t get any closer by increasing the step values. After finally getting my Cetus3D MkII 3D-printer I was eager to start to print.